These are the names of the formulas:
1. Dishwashing detergent.
2. Pine Gel.
3. Black Dip.
4. Body and shower gel.
5. Carpet shampoo.
6. Deo Blocks.
7. Toilet Bowl Cleaner.
8. Fabric Softener.
9. Waterless hand Cleaner.
10. Stainless steel Cleaner.
11. Powder Carpet Cleaner
12. Glass rinse aid.
13. Automatic Dishwashing detergent.
14. De-Ruster.
15. Bubble Bath.
16. Laundry Starch.
17. General Purpose Cleaner.
18. Brick and stone cleaner.
19. Pressure cleaner.
20. Degreaser.
21. Household Ammonia.
22. 'Handy Andy' type cleaner.
23. Aluminium cleaner and brightener.
24. Blue disinfectant for toilets.
25. Car shampoo.
26. Engine Cleaner.
27. Hair shampoo.
28. Quality 'Handy Andy' type cleaner.
29. Vinyl and Rubber protection fluid.
30. Metal polish for silver.
31. Radiator anti-freeze and anti-rust.
32. Mechanics soap paste and hand cleaner.
33. Anti-bacterial hand cleaner.
34. Children’s bubbles.
35. Algae Control.
36. Leather polish.
37. Protective barrier cream.
38. Cleansing cold cream.
39. Nail polish remover.
40. Drain Cleaner.
41. Household Bleach.
42. Dispenser liquid hand soap.
43. Window Cleaner.
44. Home Disinfectant.
45. Tile Cleaner.
46. Air Freshener.
47. Spot Laundry Cleaner.
48. Non scratch cleaner.
49. Oven Cleaner.
50. Liquid carpet shampoo.
Contents of the HOUSE AND HOME PRODUCTION MANUAL:
1. Introduction to chemical production.
2. Health and Safety Measures: Making sure that you handle chemicals correctly.
3. Labelling requirements: How to label the product to conform to regulations if you want to sell your products to supermarkets and shops.
4. Quality control: Making sure that your product is of the best quality.
5. Sample tests: Controlling the strength of the product when making economy products and luxury super strength products for the more affluent.
6. Tables of values: How much is perfect.
7. List of suppliers of raw materials to make the products.
8. Correct storage to ensure strength and freshness.
9. Working with percentages.
10. Preservatives and how to use them.
11. PH levels.
12. The use of perfumes and dyes.
13. How to thicken the products.

Soap is a particular type of surfactant derived from oils and fats, and is created through the saponification process whereby the ester linkage in a vegetable oil or fat is hydrolytically cleaved using an alkali or (NaOH or KOH) or ammonia or amine. Properties of soap with detergent 17 3.2.3 Blending of Oils 18. A number of things affect the soap-making process and the quality of this soap produced. Hypo-allergenic soaps: Mild formula soaps, low in potent irritants. They generally produce a poor lather.

Contents of the MARKETING MANUAL:
1. Branding your products so that only you sell products under a name that you choose.
2. Mark-ups and costing. What to sell your product for. How to determine the right price.
3. Market research: what do people need most; what are people actually buying and why.
4. Packaging that entice people to purchase your product.
5. How to source finance for your business.
6. Structuring your business.
7. Registering your business.
8. Other legal requirements.
9. Free Advertising and other economical ways to advertise.
10. Market penetration: How, where, what?
11. Economy versus quality: Cheap versus expensive.
12. Displaying your product correctly.
13. Choosing a suitable name for all your products and the business.
14. Your business plan.
15. How to keep your customers loyal.
16. The right location if you are opening a shop.
17. Tendering information.
18. The tax man, VAT, U.I.F. etc.
The Cost of the Detergent Manufacturing TrainingisR5100 and includes a manual with all the above formulations.
If you purchase the Home Study the cost is R3000.
*Please Note that you need to reside in South Africa to purchase the Home Study Course Package.

Click Hereto Apply for the Detergent Manufacturing Course OR Purchase the Home Study Course Package.

.Save money while you avoid the synthetic fragrances and other additives in commercial laundry detergents by learning how to make a DIY laundry detergent at home.Over a year ago, I showed you how to make a. It was actually a guest post written by someone who works in a cleaning company. It is very simple to make and uses very natural ingredients like soap flakes and baking soda. Heck, I even showed you, a super easy soap that is perfect for that sort of recipe (and for beginner soap makers!).

I made and used her “detergent” recipe quite successfully for many months before I started dabbling in the world of working with surfactants. The problem with soap-based laundry detergentsWhile my original recipe worked well for me for quite some time, it’s not the most ideal solution for cleaning your clothes, especially for those who have hard water. Soap is susceptible to forming what is known as soap scum. It’s a bit of a buildup that forms when the soap is added to hard water. Hard water has calcium and magnesium ions that react with the sodium salts in the soap. The reaction results in calcium and magnesium salts which are precipitated as soap scum.

Why is soap scum a problem?Soap scum is a problem because it can build up on your clothes and can bind with it other undesirable substances like oils and dirt, but also possibly bacteria and/or other microbes.Many people successfully use soap-based laundry detergents without noticing any problems. Others, though, notice that their clothes appear dingy after repeated use. Perhaps I was able to avoid the unpleasantness due to the fact that we have a water softener at home. We live in an area of Spain with very hard water, and most of the family was feeling itchy after showering. Plus, I constantly felt a buildup in my hair, even when I experimented with washing my hair with only water for a while. So, we finally installed a water softening system.With softer water, soap scum isn’t as big of a problem because you won’t have as many calcium and magnesium salts precipitating out. Detergents also can save you from soap scum buildup.

“Stripping” your clothesAfter repeated washings with soap, many people have decided to do what’s called “stripping,” basically a deep, thorough cleansing of the clothes with substances that help remove the mineral buildup in their clothes. You can read more about, and about stripping your clothes here.I actually tried doing it with a DIY mix of borax, washing soda, and Calgon, and while I did end up with somewhat yucky looking water, it didn’t look that much different than the water obtained from “stripping” my newer clothes that had only been washed in detergent based cleansers.

That, again, could also be due to the fact that I have soft water so my clothes probably didn’t have as much of a soap scum buildup on them. Why make your own Laundry detergent?So, you’ve decided not to use a soap-based laundry detergent, but what should you use instead?

Working with surfactants can sound a bit daunting, right? It just doesn’t feel as “natural” to use detergents or other surfactants that aren’t soap.

(If you are interested in reading more about natural surfactants, I’d recommend checking out my.)Once you get over the initial fear of working with new products, though, you’ll realize that it’s still a really great idea to make your own laundry detergent. Making your own laundry detergent saves money!Let’s start with one of the biggest advantages of making your own detergent: it’s a great way to save money!Most “natural” laundry detergents are expensive. Heck, even the not-so-natural ones tend to be overpriced when you think about their composition. They are mostly water mixed with some surfactants and many of those surfactants are actually quite inexpensive!This, of course, depends on where you are buying them and in what quantities. I bought 5 liters of SLS here in Spain for just over 20 Euros. That’s enough for me to make many bottles of detergent! When you make your own laundry detergent, you have more control over the ingredients.One of the main reasons I like to make my own detergent is that I try to avoid synthetic fragrances in most store-bought detergents, some of which are very strongly scented.

I’m actually quite sensitive to many of those fragrances and find myself nauseous when I’m in the same room with somebody who uses strongly scented detergents and fabric softeners.When making my own laundry detergent, I use essential oils to scent it, or, more often, I keep the detergent unscented. I find it more effective to add a few drops of lavender essential oil to my homemade and throw them in the clothes dryer when drying my clothes. Doing that leaves my clothes with a more natural, less overbearing fragrance. (I have since been informed that when used in dryer balls. When used in such small amounts, it’s highly unlikely, but do so at your own risk! It may be better to scent your clothes with in your closet instead!)Making your own detergent also allows you to avoid any ingredients that are problematic for you!

Isn’t sodium lauryl sulfate bad/unnatural/to be avoided?OK, I know what you’re thinkingSo, I’m talking about controlling the ingredients and using more natural ingredients, and then I go and use one of the most hated surfactants of all time, right?!?!?Sodium lauryl sulfate, aka. SLS, is a detergent type surfactant that does a wonderful job of cutting grease. It makes lots of suds and it is very inexpensive. It’s also derived from coconut oil and is completely biodegradable, something that most green-minded people should appreciate.

But isn’t SLS bad and cancer causing?Well, not really.I haven’t found any studies that show SLS causes cancer and many of the sites that bash SLS repeat a lot of the same information that either doesn’t have a real scientific basis, or that does, but whose results have been interpreted wrong. One example is the claim that SLS can react with formaldehyde to produce “nitrosating agents.” But as neither have nitrogen atoms, that would be impossible. (You can read more about here.)While it does find its origins in coconut oil, it also needs quite a bit of synthesizing to make it, so it’s not really a very “natural” product. That is enough to make some people want to avoid it, but sometimes “natural” isn’t always best. (I would choose a lab-made iron oxide colorant over a completely natural one for homemade cosmetics as the naturally foudn ones are usually contaminated with heavy metals.) What we are looking for is making products that are safe. While I prefer natural products, safety trumps natural for me any day!SLS does have other disadvantages.

It is a rather harsh surfactant, when compared to some of the others, that can irritate sensitive skin. It finds its way into a lot of personal care products where I don’t really think it should be used (like toothpaste, for example, which is why you may consider instead). I personally don’t and wouldn’t use SLS in my homemade body care products like. Homemade surfactant-based detergents look and work better than the soap and borax-based “detergents.” Why use SLS?That said, laundry detergent isn’t a personal care type product.

The superior cleansing ability of SLS really works to our advantage when we are trying to clean our clothes of dirt and grime. For me, it’s worth using here. I’ve combined it with gentler, more natural surfactants to help balance things out.SLS isn’t essential in a detergent, of course, but it will make for a better cleaning detergent. I think even most “natural” detergents I’ve seen probably are using it without completely disclosing as they are afraid of the stigma associated with using it. (I often see the detergents with ingredients listed as “non-ionic surfactants,” the most famous of which, of course, is SLS.) You can read more about the categories of surfactants in my.is another product that unapologetically uses SLS in it.

In fact, their formula was my inspiration for this laundry detergent. (I also use this mixture for all sorts of general cleaning around the house!) They also touched on. Customizing your homemade laundry detergentAs I mentioned earlier, you could experiment a bit with varying the different surfactants in this detergent recipe. This recipe, however, is thickened with salt, and not all surfactant combinations will thicken in the same way (or at all) when using salt. Why add salt?Certain surfactant mixes can easily be thickened by adding salt to them and it’s a wonderful way to thicken them because you don’t need to deal with gums or other thickeners.

This recipe is one example where salt works perfectly for thickening up the detergent. Without it, the detergent will still be concentrated and potent, but it won’t really look that way. You’d end up with a very liquidy product. Most people equate thick, viscous soaps and detergents as being more concentrated, even when that isn’t always the case.The salt in this recipe is around 2% of the recipe and I’ve found that it makes for a nice thickness. You may be able to thicken it even more with slightly more salt, but you have to be careful when experimenting with the amount of added salt. The thickening properties of the salt follow what is called a “salt curve.” The product will continue to thicken up until a certain point.

After that, adding more salt will only thin out the product again! You can use different salts to thicken your detergent. Because I usually use in my kitchen, I used that in my first batch of detergent, and it ended up being pink. Customizing the surfactantsI very much like this combination of surfactants, and have found it to make a nice looking product that is very effective. I’ve used around 15% SLS, 5% coco betaine, and 3% decyl glucoside. (You can read )If you are determined to make an SLS-free detergent, you’ll have to do some experimentation.

You’ll likely want to use a higher total concentration of surfactants, too, as the more gentle, natural surfactants aren’t as effective at cleaning. My recipe uses around 23% surfactants, but when using gentler surfactants, you’ll want to find combinations of surfactants that complement each other, and will likely want to use somewhere around 30-40% or even more.Another thing to keep in mind is that not all surfactant mixtures can be thickened with salt.

When using other combinations, you may need to add a gum like to thicken your final product. (Or just use a more liquid product, knowing that the thickness isn’t what is making your detergent stronger and more concentrated.) Adding essential oils or fragrancesI didn’t add any essential oils or fragrances to this recipe because I prefer to add a couple of drops of lavender essential oil to my when drying my clothes. I find it to be a more effective way of scenting them.

(I have since been informed that when used in dryer balls. When used in such small amounts, it’s highly unlikely, but do so at your own risk!

It may be better to scent your clothes with in your closet instead!)That said, you can use essential oils or fragrance oils to scent your homemade detergent (or you can just add a few drops of essential oils to your rinse water). I’d suggest using small amounts of EO’s because larger quantities may not be fully solubilized into the mixture, and you may end up with some separation. (These surfactants do have a certain amount of solubilizing ability, but that is limited without adding some sort of solubilizer.) Do you need a preservative?YES!Any homemade product with water in it will need some sort of preservative to keep bacteria and mold away.

The surfactants on their own are either self-preserved (by extreme pH’s) or have preservatives added to them to keep them free from microbial growth. Once you start adding more water to them, though, you’ll need to find a way to keep the microbes away. Using pH as a “preservative”There are certain ways to go about it. Have the following ingredients: Water, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Coco-Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Abies Siberica (Siberian Fir) Needle Oil, Picea Glauca (Spruce) Leaf Oil, Citric Acid, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Potassium HydroxideTheir recipe differs from mine in the use of and potassium hydroxide. I’m not quite sure why they chose to use sodium sulfate in a liquid detergent type product.is a strong base that I use when. I could be wrong here, but my suspicion is that they chose to add it to alkalinize the mixture which makes it inhospitable to microbes.

If you can make a product with a pH higher than 9 or lower than 4, you don’t generally need a preservative. (Sal Suds have a pH of around 9-9.5 according to a friend of mine who tested with pH test strips.) This, of course, depends on what sorts of ingredients you are using. Organic type ingredients like milks, plant material, and clays are more difficult to preserve. Normally, though, it should keep your product safe for up to a year. This is also the main reason that you don’t need a preservative with liquid soaps.Most preservatives don’t work very well at high extremes anyway.

Without adding KOH to this recipe, my detergent falls has a pH of around 5.I haven’t tried adding KOH to this mixture yet, but probably will the next time I have to mix some up. It is likely the most cost effective solution to preserving a detergent like this one, especially if you already like to make your own liquid soaps, so it’s really a great way to preserve the product. I’ll let you know my findings when I get around to it.

Using natural preservativesThere are a number of natural preservatives that you can use to preserve this product instead. I’ve been using one called Sharomix 705. It’s an Ecocert safe preservative that seems to be doing a pretty good job in my formula. (Sharomix can be used in products with a pH under 5.5, and should be used at a concentration of 0.6-1.2% of the recipe.) I had bought it inexpensively in large quantities, so I had plenty at home to use up and experiment with.The important thing to keep in mind here is that you’ll want to make sure the pH of the detergent is adequate for the preservative you are using. Most suppliers will share the effective pH range for their particular preservative.

They’ll also let you know an effective percentage to use.In my recipe below, I’ve used the preservative at 1% of the recipe. That’s a general range that is the amount needed for many of the more popular natural preservatives. Some of them may need to be used in higher quantities, in which case you could reduce the water content to make up for the addition of more preservative.I’ve been doing more research on a number of natural preservatives and hope to get a post about them to you soon!MeanwhileSurfactant-based homemade liquid laundry detergent. Hi, thank you for your incredibly informative writing!

I just discovered your website today and I’ve been reading through it for an hour, you have tons of great stuff here! About this post though, I notice that your recipe is basically just surfactants mixed into water, with the salt being optional and the KOH needed only because of the water. And personally I don’t have any qualms with SLS and am just trying to make the cheapest effective detergent, so I don’t think I’d bother with the other surfactants.

In that case, do you think there’s any reason I couldn’t just add a pinch of SLS directly into the washing machine instead of pre-mixing the detergent? That’s a good question!The reason for adding a lot of water is because the surfactants are very concentrated on their own, even if they may seem quite liquidy.The salt helps thicken the mixture so it doesn’t look like water and seem like a less concentrated solution. Doing these things psychologically have us using much less of the product.I guess that yes, theoretically (I’ve never tried it) you should be able to wash with just SLS. I just don’t know how much you’d add to each wash load. It would be a very, very tiny amount, I’d think.The reason for the other surfactants is to help make the detergent a bit milder and in many cases, they work synergistically, but I can’t really say for sure how exactly.While I did take a course in natural surfactants, it didn’t really give me enough information to be able to understand the relationships and things as well as I’d like.It did give me ideas for base recipes, combinations of surfactants that work well together, etc., but other than that, I need to do a lot of experimentation and trial and error.

Hi Sarah,1) Without playing with it myself, I’m not sure how the reduction of the SLS would change the consistency (especially with the use of salt as a thickener). You’d have to experiment a bit. You can definitely reduce the amount, though, and increase one of the milder surfactants in its place. If you don’t care about the thick consistency, there isn’t anything to worry about.2) Yes, you can use Cosgard instead. You can also raise the pH to above 9 with something like NaOH (Sodium hydroxide, aka. Lye) to make it self preserving.I’ve been doing that lately, but I lost the calculated amount I used so I couldn’t update the recipe just yet.

Next time I’ll try to figure it out and update. Hi Elibella,Well, theoretically, yes, I guess.I actually just answered somebody else with the same question. Here is the reply I gave himHa! That’s a good question!The reason for adding a lot of water is because the surfactants are very concentrated on their own, even if they may seem quite liquidy.The salt helps thicken the mixture so it doesn’t look like water and seem like a less concentrated solution. Doing these things psychologically have us using much less of the product.I guess that yes, theoretically (I’ve never tried it) you should be able to wash with just SLS. I just don’t know how much you’d add to each wash load. It would be a very, very tiny amount, I’d think.The reason for the other surfactants is to help make the detergent a bit milder and in many cases, they work synergistically, but I can’t really say for sure how exactly.While I did take a course in natural surfactants, it didn’t really give me enough information to be able to understand the relationships and things as well as I’d like.It did give me ideas for base recipes, combinations of surfactants that work well together, etc., but other than that, I need to do a lot of experimentation and trial and error.

Mehta1Created byApoorva M NB.EElectrical EngineeringSri Jayachamarajendra College of EngineeringCollege TeacherProf. R S Ananda MurthyCross-Checked byTechPassionAugust 10, 20131Funded by a grant from the National Mission on Education through ICT,This Textbook Companion and Scilabcodes written in it can be downloaded from the ”Textbook Companion Project”section at the website DescriptionTitle: Principles of Power SystemsAuthor: V. Principles of power systems v. MehtaPublisher: S. Principles of power systems pdf. Mehta.1.Scilab Textbook Companion forPrinciples of Power Systemsby V.

This recipe is giving me hope! I have extremely hard water (well water!) and haven’t been able to find a safe laundry wash, DIY or not, that actually produces clean clothes. So many loads of laundry have come out stinking on the other side in the name of health.

Right now I’m using a cheap store brand because it does at least work! So I have no problem with SLS in a recipe like this and I’m excited to try it. Thank you for sharing!I have one question – I have a bunch of laundry powder from a natural company that doesn’t work well, and I’ve heard that adding baking soda can help it work better in hard water. Do you think that’s true?

How much would I use? You seem to understand all this stuff so well. 😄 I’m more interested in making my own, but I’d like to salvage what I bought if I can. Hi Allison,I’m happy to help! I hope this one works well for you. 🙂As for your powder Do you know what’s in it?Adding something like baking soda or, even better, washing soda can help boost cleaning ability of some cleaners somewhat.

Baking soda can at least help neutralize odors and help with some staining. It’s boosting ability would probably depend a lot on what’s in the powder you have, though. If it has anything acidic (like citric acid), you’d probably end up neutralizing it and making it clean less. Hi Sarah,Rosemary extract isn’t a true preservative.Castile soap doesn’t need a preservative, which is why nobody has issues using it as a preservative with soaps. 😉The high pH of soap makes it self-preserving. There is no need for a preservative there.The last time I made this, I added a bit of lye to raise the pH above 9 to make it self preserving.

I have had the same batch for over a month without any obvious issues. I do think that’s how Dr. Bronner’s preserves their Sal Suds. They use KOH, but you could just as easily use NaOH, which is easier to find. You just have to be careful when making and using a lye solution. If you don’t want to use a preservative, that’s what I’d try.

You don’t need to add very much at all- just a touch to bring the solution into a range that isn’t hospitable to most microbes. Hi Grace,I’ve actually been wanting to check the pH and update this postWhile I’ve never had issues with this, I’ve been hearing that a lot of the more natural preservatives aren’t as effective at higher pH’s- and I think that Sal Suds, with similar ingredients to this recipe, actually uses KOH (potassium hydroxide) to bring the pH even higher so that it doesn’t actually need a preservative. (Products with extreme pH’s don’t need it as they are self-preserving.)I had someone check on the pH of Sal Suds for me as it’s not something I can easily buy in Spain, but I have to look to find her answer.I’m starting to think that it may be the best option for preservation- and I want to make a new post for a Sal Suds copycat- and update this post with my findings there.So, you may not need a preservative- and may prefer to increase the pH with KOH instead.KOH is also awesome for – so- win-win. Hi Louise,The SLS I bought from a place called Gran Velada (it has candle making and other soap supplies, etc.) You can find it here:The coco betaine and most of my other stuff, I buy through another place because they tend to have more things that are all natural. Gran Velada may have many or all of them, though, if you prefer to buy your products all together from the same place. The other place I buy from sells on Amazon but also have their own store off Amazon. You can find the link to the coco betaine here: (An affiliate link- I get a commission on sales through that link) and see their other products on Amazon by clicking on their store name.Or- you can also find things directly at their store cremascaseras.es.

Hi Lisa,I’m really not that familiar with the HE washers, although I’m pretty sure my mom got one at her new house back in the US. Here in Spain, they aren’t really a thing. All of the washers are front loading and all pretty similar.I did find this information onlineIt says to use less or use a less foaming type detergent. So, my best guess is that you could either dilute the detergent more or use less and you should be fine.

You could also reduce the amount of SLS. That’s the surfactant that gives the most foam and the highest cleaning power in the recipe. The other surfactants are very, very mild.I hope that helps somewhat! Hi Tracy,Thanks so much for this great recipe. I would like to ask if you would allow me to translate it to Bahasa Indonesia and repost it in my blog. I will provide the link to your actual post. Our beloved Jakarta Governor Mr.

Baswedan posted on FB his concern about the contamination in our seas and rivers caused by detergent. I commented on the idea for mums to make their own laundry detergents and receive many feedbacks. Unfortunately language is a bit of barrier so I thought I can help translating your recipe for them and post it on my blog for easy reference.Awating for your reply Tracy.Thank youIin. Hi Lin,I guess that an Indonesian version isn’t going to be in direct competition with me, so that’s OK with me, as long as you link back to me as the original source. 🙂As for the powdered surfactants.

I haven’t used them, so I’m not sure how much you would need to add. I can see if I can find information for the dilution rate of the liquid SLS I bought to give you a guideline if you’d like to experiment with it.Also, I’m using SLS and not SLES. I’m not sure if the consistency would be different.

Detergent Soap Making Formula Pdf Files

I prefer SLS as it’s supposed to be less harsh than SLES, but it’s probably a non-issue as I don’t use either for skin care products. I think when I first started researching, I saw the same as you. SLS is supposed to be harsher on the skin. On the other hand, SLES is normally classified as having a higher potential for concern in safety databases such as the. I can’t remember the reasoning. I think it is often contaminated with chemicals that can be hurtful to us and the environment.In the grand scheme of things, it’s not a huge difference, and I think there is a debate on it.I wouldn’t worry too much about it either way. I prefer not to use either for skin care products anyway, so it’s really not a huge deal.

I do prefer to use something as biodegradable and unharmful to the environment as possible.This explains it better:.Casey.

Detergent powder or washing powder is a promising industry in India. In addition, any individual can initiate a detergent powder making business with moderate capital investment. Here in this article, we intend to explore how to start a small-scale detergent powder manufacturing business.Detergent and washing powder are surfactants. And washing powder is an important ingredient for cleaning and washing purpose.Generally, there two different types of manufacturing technologies are available. One is spray dried and another is mixing the raw materials. However, the first option is only perfect for a large-scale operation. Also, it demands a huge capital investment.

How To Make Detergent Soap Formula

The second option (mixing formula) is the easier option and you can start the manufacturing with small capital investment. Here is a Detailed Stepwise Detergent Manufacturing Business Project Plan Guide for Beginners Detergent Powder Market Potential. The Indian detergent industry is growing at a CAGR of 13.06% from the last five years. Generally, the detergent powder segment caters to three categories, lower, middle and higher-end markets. In terms of value, the Rs.5,000 crore detergents market is among the largest FMCG categories in India, next only to edible oils and biscuits. In addition, the Indian market for detergents is among the largest in the worldDue to rapid urbanization, the emergence of small pack size and sachets, the demand for this product is flourishing. In addition, an increasing per capita income helps to boost the purchasing capacity of the population.

Furthermore, a wide range of available choice, health awareness and hunger for good living are other reasons for the growing demand for detergent powder.In addition, the rural population has replaced detergent cake with washing powder in massive quantity. Apart from the domestic consumption, the product has a different usage in the industrial sectors. The detergent industry represents a good investment opportunity in the small and medium sector. Therefore, washing powder manufacturing is a lucrative business opportunity for new entrepreneurs. Detergent Powder Manufacturing License & RegistrationYou will need to apply for ‘Consent to Establish’ and ‘Consent to Operate’ both from the Pollution Control Board.

For quality control, you need to have BIS registration and IS: 4955-1968: specification is required for synthetic detergent powder for household use.If you want to start the manufacturing with mixing process, you need to obtain different registrations and licenses. However, it depends on the location where you are establishing the plant. It is advisable to check the local state laws.

Here we put some of the basic considerations. First of all, determine the form of your business. And accordingly,. Apply for the Trade License from the Municipal Authority. Additionally, apply for online registration. Apply for the ‘Consent to Establish’ from the Pollution Control Board. Obtain the GST registration.

Apply for BIS certification. Choose a catchy brand name of the product and secure the name with TrademarkDetergent Powder Making Plant Setup & MachineryYou can initiate a small-scale detergent powder manufacturing unit with a 1000 Sq Ft area. However, the area requirement hugely depends on the desired quantity output.In addition, you have to secure the factory location carefully. The location must have the availability of water, electricity, and transportation.Related: Detergent Powder Making MachineThe basic detergent powder manufacturing types of equipment needed are listed below:. Reactors. Neutraliser.

Pulveriser. Blender.

Weighing scale etc.Related: Detergent Powder Making FormulaDifferent companies have their own customized formula. In addition, you have to craft the formula according to your target market demographic. You can source the manufacturing technology from Central Salt and Marine Chemicals Research Institute.

Detergent Powder Making Raw Material

Council of Scientific & Industrial Research. Gijubhai Badeka Marg, Waghawadi Road. Bhavnagar -364 002 However, here we put a basic formula with the ingredients in percentage for your ready reference.

IngredientsPremium grade (Wt,%)Popular grade (Wt,%)85% active LAB acid slurry1815Sodium carbonate (soda ash)3532Sodium metasilicate2NoAlkaline sodium silicateNo7Sodium bicarbonate1010Sodium Sulphate (anhydrous)2025Sodium tripolyphosphate107Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose1.51Phthalocyanine blue color or oil-soluble yellow colour0.10.1Optical whitener0.30.2Perfume0.10.1Water32.6Detergent Powder Manufacturing ProcessFirst of all, you have to neutralize the acid slurry with soda ash. Then keep the mixture for one hour for completion of the reaction. Then mix the other ingredients such as STEP, TSP, Glauber’s salt, CMC, Colours, Perfume etc. And blend to the neutralized acid slurry with continuous mixing.

After this, you have to dry this mixture. Then pack the finished product in the suitable packing.Related: Detergent Powder PackagingApart from the above mentioned raw materials, you have to procure packaging materials. Generally, the detergent powder comes in the poly pack. Most popular packaging quantities are 200 gm, 1 Kg, and 5 Kg.

In addition, packaging has important aspects of marketing. You must design the packets carefully. Furthermore, you have to put the basic details in packets.

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These are quantity, MRP, manufacturing date, company address, customer care number etc. In addition, you have to arrange the outer cartoons for bulk packaging and transportation. Learning Resources For Detergent Powder ManufacturingStarting a commercial detergent powder production requires some basic knowledge. And a book is the best guide for this. If you seriously want to start this business, we’d recommend you to buy this book.The term detergent by itself refers specifically to laundry detergent or dish detergent, as opposed to hand soap or other types of cleaning agents.

Some of the fundamentals of the book are the technology of soap making and washing of saponified soap. Also, it includes plant for total soap making operation, construction materials for soap making plants, earth bleaching of oils, chemical bleaching, fatty acids, manufacturing of framed soaps, manufacture of chips and flakes, manufacture of milled bars, the Mazzoni process, floating soap bars, mixing of soap, chemicals used in soaps & detergents, disinfectants and antiseptics, dry cleaning agents, etc.Additionally, the book contains formulae, processes of different types of soaps, detergents and disinfectants. These products have good demand in domestic as well as in the international market.

So there is a very good scope for new entrepreneurs to venture into this field. This book is an invaluable resource for entrepreneurs, technocrats and for those who want to diversify into this field.From a detergent powder manufacturing unit, you can also produce detergent cake and liquid detergent. Detergent Powder Project Cost Synopsis: Plant capacity: 1000 Kgs.

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/ dayT.C.I: Rs. 22 LakhsPlant & machinery: Rs.

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6 LakhsBreakeven: 46%Return: 48%The actual cost of a detergent manufacturing project may deviate on change of any of the assumptions. You can modify the project capacity and project cost as per your requirement.